Once again with a visit to the Swiss shrew, the canton of Graubünden (pl. Grisons). I explain to the uninitiated that the Swiss territory resembles a wild boar in its shape. And the entire route leads right through its snout.
Although it is not a typical mountain trail, the views, including of the snow-capped peaks of the Silvretta massif, the gem of the canton of Graubünden, are unearthly. On top of that, the picturesque villages of Guarda, Bos-cha, Ardez and Ftan, completely different from anything I’ve seen in Switzerland so far, make this route truly special.
And above all, it is ideal for a walk, a workout at the poles or an outing with children. For a trip with children, I recommend the section from Lavin to Ardez. This is because the route continues through forest and meadows, making it difficult to push a pushchair. There is also a railway station in Ardez.
Guarda, a fairytale village
The first village you pass on the route is Guarda, with its beautifully preserved architecture and characteristic paintings on the buildings (Sgraffiti). Walking down the main street, you get the impression that time has stopped here. These wall paintings can be found in each of the villages passed along the route.
The word Guarda in the Vallader dialect of the Rhaeto-Roman language means to look, to gaze. It undeniably makes sense, as the views from the village are sensational.
By the way, I should add that Rhaeto-Romance is spoken by less than 1% of the Swiss population, yet it is one of the four state languages. But what amazed me most was that it has as many as five dialects: Sursilvan, Sutsilvan, Surmiran, Puter and the aforementioned Vallader. And how to get along?
One of the most popular tales in Switzerland
Returning to Guarda, the name of the village may seem familiar to those who read children’s books. Specifically, it is about a story called ‘Schellen-Ursli’, by Selina Chönz. The book was first published in 1945 and is, just after ‘Heidi’ of course, the most popular children’s reading in Switzerland.
The story takes place right in the village of Guarda and tells of a boy named Uorsin who is looking for a suitable bell for a procession, called Chalandamarz. This custom, still practised in the area in early March, involves chasing away the spirits of winter with bells. It is said that the more noise made, the better.
It was the house numbered 51 that illustrator Alois Carigiet used as a model for the main character’s family home. His illustrations can of course be seen in the book.
Fans of the book are additionally informed that a special thematic trail (Der Schellen – Ursli – Weg) has been prepared. It focuses on the most important events in the fairy tale, such as the deployment of the bells, the adventurous entrance to Maiensäss or the joyful procession of the ‘Chalandamarz’.
A unique viewpoint
On the final stretch of the road, you descend quite sharply to the small Ftan Baraigla railway station, which is located in complete isolation. There is only one bench there. And sitting down on it reveals a unique view of Tarasp Castle. This undoubtedly makes the wait for the train more pleasant.
Last but not least, this route is also suitable for hiking in winter. Just follow the pink signposts.
